BIG EARS FESTIVAL 2025
Knoxville, Tennessee
March 24 to March 29, 2025
Its time to start my fifth journey to Knoxville, Tennessee, for the Big Ears Festival. My first year at Big Ears was 2019 and I have been to 2022, 2023 and 2024 as well.
This year I was not feeling all that well to start the trip so I made a conscious decision to just get seat time in the van today and put on some miles. My goal for this trip is to drive Highway 40 or The Old Federal Highway. I decided to drive to Decatur, Illinois, today with the idea of being able to jump on the Old Highway tomorrow. It was an interesting trip today as the central plains of Illinois were buffeted by 50 mile an hour winds.
Tonight I am in a Holiday Inn and had nothing interesting to eat all day. However, one goal was achieved when the young lady at Starbucks called me “Honey.” Those who have been with me before this is a goal I hope to reach by eating in various diners all over America. It was not in a diner but there are still plenty of days left in the trip.
Miles today: 257
Tuesday, March 25, 2025
To say today was a strange travel day would be no exaggeration.
I ate in the hotel lobby this morning for convenience and then was on the road by 9:30 a.m.
My first stop was at the Bulk Plant Resale shop in Vandala, IL. Although the names sounds like a nature store, it is reference to the bulk plants that gas producers used to have here in the United States. The store has some museum like artifacts from what I assume was a local plant that were vintage but not for sale. I bought three items for my students to use in the upcoming A Hollow That Needs To Be Filled workshop I am teaching this fall at Shake Rag Alley in Mineral Point, WI.
Once in Vandala, I was able to jump onto the National Highway, Historic Highway 40. This highway at one time could be traveled from Atlantic City, New Jersey, to San Francisco, California (I cannot begin to imagine in the day before our speeds we use how long this trip must have taken). Its nickname is Main Street of America and you can still drive through many small towns today—but they are quite different now. Most still have huge gorgeous homes from when robber barons lived in these communities but now they are all distressed or bed and breakfast places.
Here is where my day got challenging. I stopped in Brownstone IL to take these photos. I also managed to drive off the road and into a ditch, burying the axels up to the top of the hubs in mud. I called AAA for a winch but after an hour I was still sitting in the ditch when an industrial truck stopped by with three men inside.
It turns out the youngest of the three had been coming back from lunch and saw me in the ditch and went back to work with the intention of doing a good deed (and getting out of any other work waiting for him). One guy crawled under the van, hooked up a tow line and they had me out of the ditch in less than a minute.
Getting AAA’s attention for the original call required working with AI that took so long my call came up in a que for the human. I had the same experience when I called back to cancel the call. However, after getting shunted to two different humans and then being disconnected, I decided it was there problem not mine.
I decided it would be best if I washed the van which went well until I pulled out of that lot and heard my cell phone drop on the floor of the passenger seat. I pulled into the barbershop next door to retrieve it but I could not see it anywhere. Evidently I looked so goofy doing this that a guy my age named Larry came out of the shop and offered to help. He called my cell and we could both here it ringing but no matter what we did we could not find it anywhere until I practically stuck my head under the passenger seat and realized this: the phone had fall off the cup holder, hit the floor and bounced up inside the seat. Yikes! I thank Larry profusely for his help.
So, I lost two hours of travel time, verbally wrestled with AI, got stuck in a ditch and lost my phone. I thought, that is it—it can’t get worse.
Then it started to hail.
I did stop at the Wolf Creek Antiques in Altamont, IL where I bought a really cool old level.
Because I lost so much time my plan to follow Highway 40 to Dayton, Ohio, got cut short and I ended up at a Holiday Inn Express in Indianapolis, IN. Even more depressing, dinner was at a Cracker Barrel where the rice I got as a side dish was either not cooked at all or very overcooked making it inedible.
Miles today: 253
Total Mileage So Far: 560
Wednesday, March 26, 2025
Another hotel lobby breakfast today so that I could be on the road by 8:30 am. No antiquing today as it was all Federal highways in order to get to Knoxville by the afternoon. Even that plan went awry when I lost one hour of travel time at the Tennessee border because of construction.
I finally arrive in Knoxville, TN, around 3:30 p.m. I had a big disappointment this year as all the festival downtown hotels sold out before I could get a room. Since the available rooms left were selling at $549 a night (WTF!) I took a suburban hotel instead. This meant the first thing I had to do is scope out a parking garage in downtown Knoxville as I never had to use one before as I always left my car for four days at my downtown hotel.
The place I am staying this year is the Holiday Inn Knoxville West at Cedar Buff, an inconvenient 8 mile drive to the burbs in order to get a night of sleep.
After checking in at the hotel it was back downtown for supper at the Tennessean Hotel. Then I went to the Knoxville Museum of Art for a special pre-festival event.
(PLEASE NOTE: ALL CONCERT PHOTOS ARE EITHER FROM BIG EARS OR LOCAL NEWS MEDIA. As an Irishfest photographer, it kills me that I cannot do the same thing here.)
The University of Tennessee Libraries has an archive of musical interest, one of which is the letters of renowned Knoxville-born artist Beauford Delaney.
Retired musical professor and internationally famous jazz pianist and composer Donald Brown agreed to write three pieces for this event based on Delaney’s personal letters. The first piece was based on his letters with his mother, the second with his friend and fellow Paris resident James Baldwin and the last was a blues tune dedicated to Delaney himself.
The band was an all-star assemblage of Knoxville talent and a few guests from Big Ears, nine musicians altogether. The pieces were all very interesting and well composed. I was lucky to score a seat in the front row (something I find easy to do at the festival because I am all alone—that sounds sad but is actually a good thing when it comes to nabbing the best seat in the house).
Got home to the hotel early tonight as tomorrow the festival officially starts.
Miles today: 428
Total Miles For the Trip: 988
Thursday, March 27, 2025
This morning I ate breakfast in a local diner called Colonel’s Café where the waitress gave me a travel victory by calling me “Honey.”
Then it was off on a marathon antique morning where things were purchased. The places I visited included Bearden Antique Mall, Vintage Treasures Antiques, Four Seasons Vintage and Bargain Hunters Antique and Flea Market. At Nostalgia, I met a cat that I could have brought home if he was not the official greeter of the building. Another stop was Jerry's Artorama where things were purchased and this cool fish art was on the wall. The rest of these photos were in the area of the Artorama and Nostalgia.
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After driving downtown I spent some time wandering the streets. I also took the time to buy my festival T-shirt of add to my collection.
The Big Ears Festival kicked off at 6:00 p.m. tonight.
First up for me was Tigran Hamasyan at the Tennessee Theater. The theater is a wonder on its own, a huge venue built long ago in the style of the elegant music houses of Europe. The good news is it never sells out as it seats a zillion people. Hamasyan is an Armenian musician who played The Bird of a Thousand Voices which he also turned into a video game. It was an epic film score that I enjoyed hearing and seeing.
Steve Roach
At 8:00 p.m. I saw Steve Roach at the Church Street United Methodist Cathedral which is a huge old church on top of a hill on one end of the downtown. Roach has a long career as a electronic keyboard creator. Tonight he played his sonic symphonies in the church sanctuary surrounded by a dynamic light show. My only difficulty with this presentation was it was 120 minutes without a break of any kind, one piece rolling into the next.
The next event was one of the highlights of the weekend for me. I was back at the Tennessee Theater to see Bela Fleck, Antonio Sanchez and Edmar Catstaneda. It never ceases to amaze me what Fleck can do on a banjo but Edmar is like the Jimi Hendrix of the harp.
Because this was the last concert of the night and I had to drive back to my hotel I did not get to bed until 12:30 a.m.
Miles today: 28
Total Miles For the Trip: 1016
Friday, March 28, 2025
Today I went to one of my favorite Knoxville breakfast places, Pete’s Restaurant and Coffee Shop. Besides the great food there is always a "baby" or "honey" sent my way during my meal.
Today the music starts for me at Noon at the Bijou Theater for the Immanuel Wilkins Blues Blood performance. This was challenging music but not unpleasant and I love sitting in the loge section of this theater so I can look down on the musicians.
I was pretty interested in what I was going to hear when I went to see Brighde Chaimbuel at the Knoxville Art Museum. She plays the small pipes and is a minimalist in her approach. I found the music rather non-involving for a live performance.
Another performance that left me feeling a little challenged was Modney at the Knoxville First Presbyterian Church Sanctuary. He is a solo violinist but I could not get engaged in the pieces he was playing.
Tonight I had the time to eat sushi for dinner at Kabuki.
At 5:30 p.m. it was time to see Wadada Leo Smith at the St. John’s Cathedral. Smith is in his 80s but can still blow. The best part of this performance was when he brought out the RedKoral Quartet, four youngish string players who really proved dynamic and not challenged by a huge trumpet player like Smith.
I know by now you can tell I have turned into a crabby old man but one thing I noticed this year is that many of the musicians are using electronica to create soundscapes which allows them to sit on a stage all by themselves, self-absorbed into their devices and ignoring the audience. Allow the soundscapes may be interesting, in a live performance it leaves me high and dry. This was my experience with iiisa at the Knoxville First Presbyterian Church Chapel.
The opposite was true when I heard one of the most electric and dynamic performances of the festival: Tarta Relena. These two Catalan singers face the audience and totally engage with them, creating a huge sound that is so captivating, all while there fingers are flying on their electronic aides--never letting that take away from the audience. This is the second time I have seen Tarta Relena at Big Ears (2023) and I am sold on their talent.
As long as I was right there it was easy to move back into the Knoxville First Presbyterian Church Chapel to see singer and guitarist Jules Reidy. While I can not hum any of her songs, I enjoyed her solo performance in this small setting.
The last event of the evening for me was Taj Mahal at the Tennessee Theater. Sometimes performances at Big Ears are not a sonic experiment that challenges your senses but rather a typical musical presentation you could see anywhere. So when this old veteran showed up to entertain a large crowd in a beautiful setting all the normal buttons were pushed.
Again, as last night I did not get home until 12:30 a.m.
Miles today: 24
Total Miles For the Trip: 1040
Saturday, March 29, 2025
I can finally report that today is the first day I actually feel well so I can report that I enjoyed this day the best so far. I was up at 7:00 a.m. and went to Pete’s for breakfast again.
As I was thinking about heading over to my first event today I stopped at the Starbucks at the Hilton Hotel for a refresher. To my great surprise, who should walk by but the star of the event of was heading to: Billy Collins, my favorite poet.
Not being shy, I stalked him and that meant I found him outside the Hilton, phone out, trying to find the venue he will be speaking at. I walked right up to him and asked him the always slightly weird question, "Are you Billy Collins?"
I ended up escorting Billy about six blocks to the St. John's Cathedral. This gave me a chance to chat him up a bit and one of the things we shared was that I used his poem The Dead at my father's funeral (I suggest you Google it as it is wonderous). To say I was thrilled by walking along with a former Poet Laureate of the United States and a giant in my literary world would be an understatement.
As we walked along, I must confess that Billy was not sure I knew what I was doing as he really wanted to be speaking at the huge Church Street United Methodist Cathedral which dominates the skyline from its perch on the hill above the downtown district.
When we got to St. John's Billy was kind enough to introduce me to his partner for this literary event, Geoff Dyer. Yeah, I am the luckiest guy in the world (at least today).
Here is part of our dialog:
Billy Collins: "This kind gentleman was nice enough to bring me here. I am rather disappointed we aren't speaking in that cathedral on the hill."
Me: "When you get inside I don't think you should let God know this one is not big enough."
Geoff Dyer: "Billy, I think you are revealing a bit more about your ego than you should."
Yeah, I am the luckiest guy in the world (at least today).
The Collins/Dyer readings at St. John's was everything I wanted it to be. Dyer read from But Beautiful: A Book About Jazz which are short stories based on the lives of some of the greats of jazz. Collins read jazz or music related poems to the amusement of the audience who loved his wit and commentary on his chosen subjects, the things that make his poetry approachable and meaningful.
Denice and I are season subscribers to Present Music, a new music ensemble that specializes in what I would define as minimalistic chamber music. This week they premiered the concert package titled intO tHe WiLd which I could not see because I was in Knoxville. Luckily, the ensemble was booked into this year's Big Ears so seeing them was a must.
Today the program began with Andy Akiho's Copper Canvas followed by Kamran Ince’s then, nothing.
But what was creating some buzz at the festival was the second half of the program: Carla Kihlstedt/Present Music collaboration 26 Little Deaths, which is based on the book The Gashleycrumb Tinies, that celebrates the centennial year of author and illustrator Edward Gorey. Performed in front of each of the 26 letters of the alphabet, Kihlstedt did a great job using music to illustrate each tragic death. Some of the music had a sense of humor that mirrored the art work and it all was very pleasant to see and hear. Congratulations to this ensemble that represented itself and Milwaukee music very well.
For dinner tonight I had a Gyro from the Falafal Restaurant which I are while I was walking to the Knoxville Civic Auditorium to see Joe Lovano's Paramount Quartet. It felt good to see and hear some straight ahead jazz from this master. It was not hurt by the fact that the guitarist in this quartet is Julian Lage.
Despite opportunities I have never seen the Sun Ra Arkestra but made that up tonight at the Tennessee Theater where I took in this band. If you are not familiar with them, they are a mixture of New Orleans front lines, jazz, swing, rock 'n' roll, Chicago blues, improvisation and electronic. Wild, to say the least.
Arooj Aftab at the Knoxville Civic Auditorium was very entertaining despite the fact that this beautiful voiced singer was battling bronchitis. Very charismatic yet comfortably self-deprecating, she sings in the Sufi language about very modern issues. I was lucky enough to score a front row seat for this show.
The last band of the night was a group from Ukraine that Denice and I have seen in Milwaukee. To say this show by DakhabBrakha at the Tennessee Theater was emotional would be an understatement. In a direct counter to the failed leadership in our nation's capital, this audience was not unafraid to rise to its feat, standing with Ukraine.
Miles today: 20
Total Miles For the Trip: 1060
Sunday, March 30, 2025
Here are my reasons:
I was still not 100% health wise
It was scheduled to rain all day in Knoxville
The check engine light came on my van
Denice and I are supposed to go on another trip, in the van, this upcoming week
So, I bailed on Big Ears one day early. I know I did miss some interesting music but I just was not on the top of my game so this was the best decision I could make.
I was up at 6:00 a.m. (5:00 a.m. Milwaukee time) and made the decision to drive home on Federal Highways straight through, an estimated 9 hour trip.
Remember the day I said, "How could things get worse?", and then it hailed.
Today as I reached northern Indiana my phone went nuts in my pocket with an alarm and vibrating like a demon. I was aware that there were dark clouds in the area but my phone told me to seek shelter as there was a tornado in the area. I was a few miles short of the exit for Merryville which is always our last stop before heading through Chicago anyway but by the time I got there the winds were horrific, the rain was poring sideways and the visibility was gone. All the vehicles had their flashers on and most pulled over to either side of the highway. I plowed down the middle, exited onto the off ramp and drove to a Bob Evan's right off the highway where I sought shelter and a meal.
An hour later the clouds, rain and wind had moved off and I was able to drive home by 6:00 p.m.
I am definitely going to Big Ears again. It is a special festival that I do not want to miss. My goals next year would be to be healthy, get a downtown hotel again and see as much music as I can.
Miles today: 650
Total Miles For the Trip: 1710
