Monday, March 23. 2026
Today I began my sixth annual trip to the music festival in Knoxville, TN, called Big Ears. Here is there own definition of the festival: “Big Ears is a four-day celebration of musical and artistic adventure and discovery, transforming downtown Knoxville, TN, into an immersive playground for the senses. From March 26–29, 2026, over 35,000 attendees will experience nearly 250 performances, films, conversations, literary events, and art installations across 20 diverse venues, including historic theaters, churches, intimate clubs, and art galleries. Founded in 2009, Big Ears is unlike any other festival—presenting iconic artists and bold new voices from around the globe. The programming crosses generations and genres, spanning contemporary classical, jazz, experimental, rock, folk traditions, ambient soundscapes, and beyond.”
I left Milwaukee today at 8:45 a.m (CT) but from now on I will be on Eastern Time. Getting out of Milwaukee proved unusually difficult but I blew through Chicago which is also strange. The down side of today is that I have to stay on the Federal Highways rather than my usual winding state or local roads. Today’s destination is Fort Wayne, IN, where I have to pick up a work of art that had been in the Sticking Together exhibition at the ArtLink gallery.
I had a 3:00 p.m. deadline to get to the gallery and I made it by driving straight through with no interesting stops. And no photographs. The ArtLink gallery is located in the downtown area in a complex called the Auer Center for Arts and Culture. Winter weather and other concerns kept me from seeing this show but after seeing how nice the gallery was and how cool the area was I wish I had been able to make the scene.
I then backtracked twenty minutes on Highway 30 to an antique mall called My Red Moon in Larwill, IN. Surprisingly in this sparsely populated location, this was a real antique mall which means prices were out of my range for assemblage. I did score a small vintage saw and a book for collage. I don’t think the two ladies at the check out counter were impressed that I spent less than $10.
My resting spot tonight was a Holiday Inn Express in Columbia City and my fine dining was carry out from Kentucky Fried Chicken.
Mileage for the Day: 305
Tuesday, March 24, 2026
Today I had no need to get up by schedule so I did not. I knew I wanted a special lunch today so I actually ate the hotel lobby food!
My first stop of the day was The Shops @ the Sanctuary in Columbia City. This shop is more like a Tuesday Morning with scattered real antiques. Even though all I got was a pretty cool repo frame it was worth the trip. The antique store is in an old church from the 1880s and still has the original stained glass. The sun was shining in the windows and it was grand. I only wish I had my camera.
Next up Columbia City was The Mercantile. This did not look like much when I walked in but it surprised me. Besides a ton of smalls I even walked out with a tobacco basket that I have a plan for when I get home.
I drove to a place called Gary’s On Main in Churubusco. When I got there it was not open as I failed to check the schedule thus not being able to buy antiques from my namesake.
Then I drove back into Fort Wayne figuring I should at least do the city I went to on purpose. I went to a great store called Yvonne Marie’s Antique Mall. The prices were so good I could not leave stuff there so I am coming home with a travel ironing board, a child’s ironing board, a decorative wood piece I can’t wait to collage on, a weird curved hunk of wood with nails still in it (I think this was a serving board) and a whole bunch of smalls.
It was a good day to junk.
Today I was able to take state highways 33 and 127 to Lexington. Highway 127 is the one that holds a flea market that runs from Georgia to Michigan. I did the entire length one year in four days but honestly, I did not recognize anything on this trip nor did I see any roadside antique stores. Considering the morning, that might be a good thing.
My special treat was to eat poorly by indulging in one of my favorite fast food things: an original chicken sandwich from Burger King. With fries. (Insert your comments here).
I found a Holiday Inn Express in northern Lexington (actually Keeneland) where I overnighted.
Mileage for the Day: 289
Mileage for the Trip: 594
Wednesday, March 25, 2026
My departure time today was 9ish today and my breakfast spot was called Beau’s Café where as soon as I sat down the waitress called me “baby.” My goal on all my trips is to eat in diners where this happens so I was thrilled.
Today I was able to stay on 27, 127 and 33 meaning I was not on any Federal Highways but instead saw more of the countryside of the state I traveled through.
My first antiquing stop today was Vendor’s Village in Danville, KY, where I bought some boxes, an Avon bottle and a bust of Bach.
While driving down the highway I came across one of those things you only see on the smaller roads: a family outside their trailer where they sit everyday selling the saddest junk I have seen on this trip. This is what poverty is all about in America and unless you see it you don’t understand it. I contributed to the local economy with a purchase of a roached tool and some really rusty door knobs. This experience was in the inappropriately named Liberty, KY.
Shocker: I went to two antique stores in Livingston, TN, and bought nothing! I was sorely tempted by a magnificent mantle clock on sale for $50 but when I struggled to lift it I left it.
Now its on to Knoxville, TN, and Big Ears. I made a hotel reservation through the festival housing authority and had a confirmation number for the Hilton Knoxville. Here is the strange part: the hotel tried to pre-charge my room to my credit card this morning (as in today, this morning!) while I was on the road. The card I used months ago to reserve the room was compromised so I have a new card now. They called me while I was driving to tell me that and let me know my room would be CANCELLED if I did not call them by noon.
When I got to the check-in desk, I had no room. Total panicky meltdown at the front desk. By me, in case you did not get that. I was nice but weepy. I pulled the age card. I even mentioned I am a Hilton member (OK, I was desperate).
The desk clerk ran to get the manager. The manager called the Regional Manager. Here is what I was offered in the order it was given.
They had a room for me for one night—and then none.
I could get my four nights at the non-festival rate which means DOUBLE the cost
The Reginal Manager said I could stay for the four nights at the original festival rate
Every once in a while things go my way (after they did not go my way).
There is a very nice pedestrian mall in downtown Knoxville a short walking distance from my hotel. I went there tonight to a place called The Brass Pearl and had oysters for dinner.
After the brief stress of the evening it was nice to have a good meal, read my book and get to bed in the room I know I will be in for the next four nights.
Mileage for the Day: 283
Mileage for the Trip: 877
Thursday, March 26, 2026
Today I did not rise and shine until 8:30 a.m. One of the nice things about staying repeatedly in the same city is that you can have go to things and mine this morning was biscuits and gravy at the great dinner called Pete’s.
Today Big Ears officially kicks off. Music is not until tonight but during the day there are a lot of non-music activities including the two films I decided to go see.
At 11:00 a.m. at the Regal Riviera Cinema (on the main drag a short walk from my hotel) I saw a 2026 documentary called Newport: The Great Folk Dream. This film covers the Newport Folk Festival’s years of 1963, 64 and the pivotal 1965. If you saw the 2024 film with Timothée Chalamet called A Complete Unknown then you know what happened in 1965. The film uses never before seen footage from the three festivals and weaves the tale of the establishment of the festival and its dedication to folk music vs. the changes in American music once the Beatles invaded. This is well worth seeing if it gets distributed to something like Netflix.
At 1:00 p.m. at the Regal I caught another documentary called The Last Critic. Here is the festival’s description of this movie: “The Last Critic is the first documentary feature about Robert Christgau, a pioneer of music criticism. The self-proclaimed Dean of American Rock Critics, Christgau helped invent the form in 1967 while covering the Monterey Pop Festival for Esquire, then redefined the form in 1969 with his Consumer Guide at The Village Voice—letter-graded, capsule reviews, 18 thousand of them over more than 50 years.” I am not sure how I can be a lifelong fan of music and have never heard of this guy. Being with him for 90 minutes was well worth the time especially because he is such a brilliant man but also a crusty curmudgeon.
I had time to do some photography. A must stop in Knoxville for the camera is the art in the alley downtown.
I walked to the merchandise distribution center to get my festival T-shirt.
Then I walked over to the Knoxville Art Museum but it was a huge disappointment. The special exhibit is not open today because there is a reception at 4:30 p.m. The rest of the exhibits in the museum are the same art I saw last year! Bummer.
After a drop off at my hotel I headed over to the pedestrian mall to Kabuki for some sushi. I started with an apricot Cosmo ((Friends—insert your comments here). I had goyza and nigiri but wanted something sweet too. Well, words might have been lost in the translation as I ended up with a platter of six macaroons for dessert. I will not be testing my blood sugar for awhile
I got in the premier que at the Tennessee Theater around six tonight to make sure my attendance at this concert would not be in question: Pat Metheny and Side Eye 3 (keyboardist Chris Fishman, bassist Jermaine Paul, and drummer Joe Dyson plus a brilliant vocalist and percussionist whose name I did not catch). I have been seeing Metheny for so long I think I might have been present at his birth. The concert tonight was from 7:00 p.m. until 9:15 p.m. without an intermission. That is getting your money’s worth. He was great, the back up band was great and I went back to my room with a smile on my face.
Friday, March 27, 2026
I was up at 7:30 a.m. this morning and it was time to visit another favorite breakfast spot in Knoxville: The Ruby Sunshine, sister to The Ruby Slipper of New Orleans fame where I have eaten often. I had something today that was new to me: Costa Rican breakfast and it was good.
My first musical adventure for the day was the Tomas Fujiwara Dream Up at the newest venue addition for Big Ears—an abandoned Greyhound Station appropriately called The Greyhound for this festival. Besides drummer Fujiwara, the band included vibraphonist Ches Smith, percussionist Tim Keiper, and drummer and Japanese flautist Kaoru Watanabe. The percussion kits were set up on a high rise where the bus station seats used to be—but there were no chairs for the audience. That meant everyone stood around the “stage” and old men like me sat against the wall. I thought this was going to be place holder stop but I ended up staying for the entire set. The music was very engaging which symbolizes what this festival is all about—having the courage to discover something new.
I walked over to another new location for me: The Point. This is another church being utilized for a concert venue. The act I saw was Jimmie Dale Gilmore and Butch Hancock (with an accordion player). These two are the survivors of The Flatlanders since the passing of Joe Ely. To me they sounded like two different versions of Willie Nelson—that is not meant as a cut—it just describes their music.
My ears were big enough to like Basic, a veteran rock trio, but they were playing at a bar called Barley’s which had no seats and no sight lines. I only stayed for two songs before I decided I could do better at a facility that treats its audience better.
There are no seats at Jackson Terminal (are we seeing a theme for the day here?) but there was Marc Ribot’s Hurry Red Telephone (drummer Chad Taylor, bassist Sebastian Steinberg, saxophonist Briggan Krauss). I had seen Ribot at the Vivarium in Milwaukee so I sort of new what to expect but as it turns out—he is a chameleon. This version of him is a sonic Wildman and so are these bandmates. Again, I was challenged but it turns out I loved it and stayed put for the whole set.
When the set was over I headed to Nama Izakaya on Gay Street. This is an Asian fusion restaurant which this month was featuring Korea. I had a drink (Friends—insert your comments here) called a Japanese Expresso martini (holy crap!). My meal was Korean chicken, salmon eel avocado roll with miso soup. This is a yummy yummy place I highly recommend if you visit Knoxville.
It is turning chilly here with a threat of rain so I went to my hotel room and put on some layers. Then it was over to the Tennessee Theater for Caroline Shaw, So Percussion and Ringdown. This mashup of bands might be the best thing I saw here. So Percussion is four men who hit anything with sticks, Caroline Shaw sings with an electronica voice but still sounds like an angel and Ringdown is her and Danni Lee who proved to be another woman with a interesting voice. It is impossible to describe the creativity displayed on the stage which also packaging it in a dynamic musical presentation. In the spirit of Robert Christgau, I give it an A+.
I hid out in the Hyatt next door to the Tennessee Theater for about an hour (Gatorade and a cookie) reading my book as it is cold, windy and rainy in Knoxville on this night.
At 8:45 p.m. I am back in the theater for the John Scofield Trio (bassist Vicente Archer and drummer Bill Stewart). Scofield is a guitarist I respect but because he is pretty out-there I do not find him as engaging as Pat Metheny.
Luckily my hotel is only three blocks from the theater so I was home warm and dry after a short dash.
Saturday, March 28, 2026
I got up at 7:00 a.m. today in order to get to Pete’s early for breakfast. It is freezing (literally) here in Knoxville after a cold front went through so when I walked to the Regal Riviera Cinema for my first event of the day I was not happy to have to stand with my nose pressed against the glass at 8:30 a.m.
Finally someone inside took pity on me and let me in for the showing of September Songs: The Music of Kurt Weill. The festival description of this film says it “is a stunning fusion of film, theatre, and concert performance that reimagines the songs of legendary composer Kurt Weill. Featuring a remarkable ensemble — including Teresa Stratas, Lou Reed, Nick Cave, PJHarvey, Betty Carter, Elvis Costello, Mary Margaret O’Hara, The Persuasions, William S. Burroughs, and more.” This film by Larry Weinstein was shown on CBC television in 1995 and then pretty much disappeared until this restoration was done and it had its world premiere here in Knoxville. The film is very interesting and integrates Weill’s music with a 90’s music video vibe. I like it.
Noon today in Knoxville was a No Kings protest. I will be posting a separate blog with all the photos of signs and people I took here.
After the protest I dumped my camera off in my hotel room and then walked to the Knoxville Museum of Art. I was able to see the exhibition that was not open the other day, Wayne White: Revenge of the Knoxville Girl. White is an artist who works in a number of mediums but I was super intrigued to see the big figurative sculptures he builds are made out of cardboard.
I was here to see the 2:30 p.m. concert by Do Yeon Kim, a gayageum player (25 string Korean instrument) but…while I waited through the sound check to be let into the seats, I could not stand her “out-there” sound. It was painful so I left.
The good news was that meant I could make a concert I thought I would not: Muireann Bradley at the Boyd’s Jig and Reel. Bradley is a teenager from Ireland who not only plays her country’s music (but not much of it) but also what could be described as Americana. Let me tell you: this is a huge star in the making. Her mastery of finger-picking is amazing. Here is the bad news: no seat for me at the Jig and Reel so I sat in the front window with everyone else standing in front of me. I never actually saw Muireann Bradley but I loved every minute of her concert.
Next up was a run to the Tennessee Theater to catch the 5:00 p.m. show by Richard Thompson. This is a guy who I have heard on recordings but am neither that familiar with his music nor have I ever seen him live. Holy cow—talk about a talented performer with dynamic charisma. For the first time that I witnessed the Tennessee (holds nearly 2,000 folks) was standing room only.
That was it for me for the night. Low on food consumption combined with my age and sore legs, I decided to make it a night. See—I should never go back to my room later in the day to change my shoes.
Sunday, March 29, 2026
Today was a no alarm day but I was able to wake up by 8:30 a.m. I decided by moving faster than I have since a much younger age, I could spruce up myself and get out of the room for my first adventure of this day.
To my great surprise this has turned into a min film festival for me so at 9:00 a.m. I was back at the Regal Riviera Cinema for the film Roaring Abyss (2015) directed by Quino Pinero. In 2015 there were 80 million people living in Ethiopia speaking 80 different languages. Pinero went there to record the music of the country and he did a great job, trusting the music to carry the film as it should. It was terrific.
After the film I ran to Ruby Sunshine for my breakfast. Then, after a brief stop at my room, I was heading back to the Tennessee Theater for a 1:00 show by the Julian Lage Quartet (bassist Jorge Roeder, drummer Kenny Wolleson and keyboardist John Medeski). Lage is a very interesting guitarist but at times challenging (mostly in a good way). The big deal for me was to see Medeski because I could not stay up to midnight the first night to hear his band.
Some of you might know Chris Thile from his radio show Live From Here. I had the chance to see him today at the Knoxville Civic Auditorium. Thile began his musical career as the mandolin player in Nickel Creek. Now he is a solo act and his big thing is to do Bach on the mandolin. It is an amazing experience to hear.
I was back at Kabuki for sushi again tonight. It is a short walk to the Tennessee Theater to see Nels Cline Lovers. Guitarist Cline was on stage with (by my count) 17 musicians including the Knoxville Jazz Orchestra. Cline reimagined other peoples’ work for this concert and I did stay for the whole experience.
That is a wrap on the 2026 Big Ears Festival in Knoxville, Tennessee. I had a great time and I am already planning to attend next year.
Monday, March 30, 2026
Today I got up at 5:30 (ET or 4:30 CT) to pack and hit the road. Breakfast was McDonalds on the move. The drive home was all on Federal Highways as the important thing today was to get home.
I did make one stop: Vic’s Antiques and Uniques in Edinburgh, IN. I pulled onto the ground for this collection of really cool stuff and dragged out the camera. I was shooting my first car when I was approached by three guys who wanted to let me know the business was only open on the weekends and I was not welcomed in the yard.
I applied my best persuasive techniques in this order (with a big smile):
First, praise the stuff: “Holy cow, I had to come here as this is a Kaiser. I only see Kaiser’s in museums.”
Second, let them know what you are doing: “I just love taking photos of old cars.”
Third, provide the out: “But if I can’t be here I guess I will have to drive back to Milwaukee without getting any shots. I understand.”
At this point, one of the dudes says, “There are actually two Kaisers out here,” and I knew I was in.
I managed to get home by 5:30 p.m. CT. It was a great trip and I am ready for next year already.
Mileage for the Day: 642
Mileage for the Trip: 1519
