Tuesday, February 10, 2026
Today we went to breakfast at 8:30 a.m. with the Bugenhagens. This was our chance to meet our good Louisville art buddy, Marilyn Werst. I also touched base with Wayne and Janet who got in yesterday. After breakfast the Niebuhrs and the Bugenhagens headed out into Oaxaca de Juarez for a day of adventures.
Let's get political. Since Donald Trump has come on the national political scene he has denigrated Hispanics, especially Mexicans. I was not to sure how we would be received here in Oaxaca. The reality is that this Mexican city is a wonderful place to visit with its emphasis on art, food and language education. No one ever objected to us being here that I met. That being said, there is anti-American protests on some walls. I could not help being embarrassed by my country and partially in agreement with the sentiments expressed. It probably will surprise no one that the focus is on Donald Trump and I feel that is for good reason. We need to realize that Mexico does not need to be bullied by the United States. While it has problems like any nation state it needs to solve or not solve its own issues without threats from a colonial power like the United States. Thank you for your attention to this matter!
Today our walkabout began with a trip to the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca behind the Santo Domingo Church. We missed the 10:30 a.m. tour so we went across the street to Tierro del Sol for Bebidas. I had a horchata.
We were able to get into the botanical gardens at 11:a.m. but things have changed here over the years. The first year I went to the gardens they had botanical tours throughout the gardens in both English and Spanish. The next time it was strictly in Spanish as they had no English speaking tours.
This time it was also only in Spanish but now the tour is missing. Basically you get walked back to the cactus are of the gardens for your own photography and then walked out to the gate. I was very disappointed this time and I hope there is a good reason for this and next time the tours will be back and through the complete grounds.
Right near the botanical garden gate is a store we affectionately called The Teapot Store although it appears the teapot no longer hangs above the entrance. Denice shopped for milagros while I bought two wonderful old glass frames with religious symbology still intact. I can’t wait to get home to use these in some fantastic art.
As we began to walk we noticed that the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo (Temple of the Blood of Christ) was open, a church I have passed a zillion times but never when the doors were open.
We went shopping at the alebrijes store of Jacobo & María Ángeles.
While looking at the color creatures carved from copal and painted with amazing style we discovered a wall of creatures like the creatures we are going to be making in this workshop.
I bought this creature from the Guerrero region to hang in our gallery at home and to inspire me in the workshop.
Our next stop was the Soledad Church. Because it closes at 2:00 p.m., we headed to the Church Museum. This is basically the artifacts from the long and rich history of the religious practices at the Church.
I go to this little museum because the highlight for me is the very extensive retablo collection they have. Retablos are little paintings that people have painted when they survive something bad and a local artist paints the thanks on tin. Then the priest hangs it on the wall in the church. Frida and Diego used to collect these and old ones, like these, are now pretty rare.
In the courtyard of the church is the location of multiple ice cream stands. The flavors are extensive and the break for something cold was well received. I have not mentioned this before but the weather here is very warm during the day, reaching the 80s.
We walked next to the always bustling Benito Juarez Market.
One of our goals today was the Museo Textil de Oaxaca. The exhibit on the upper floor did little to interest me as it appeared to be the sewing of some religious organization. The lower level exhibit was samples of regional sarapes which proved colorful and inspirational of the work we are going to do in Michael’s workshop.
Next to the Textil Museum is the Centro Cultural San Pablo which currently has an exhibition called “Images and Photographic Matter: Japanese Prints from the 1970s” This museum always has fascinating exhibits and this one was not a disappointment.
My favorite work in the Japanese collection was Tamana Araki’s La onda de Hokusia a la mexiana (Hokusai’s Wave in Mexican Style).
We then headed to our dining experience for the night, La Concina de Humo.
Denice made the La Concina de Humo reservation for us and she was under the impression this would be an in Spanish experience. The four of us were welcomed into the establishment (in Spanish). We were then given our first course for the evening which we carried around as our chef explained all the ingredients grow in the courtyard that might end up in our food (in Spanish). We were then invited into our private dining area where the chef asked us a question (in Spanish).
It was at this point our chef realized (in Spanish) was not going to work with us and switched to perfect English. That is not the only delightful thing he did as he interviewed us about our lives, explained the reason why he is a chef, broke down the methods and ingredients of each dish and then cooked us an absolutely wonderful meal of specific Oaxacan dishes. This is a dining experience not to be miss if you ever travel to Oaxaca.
While Denice was going into every zapatos store on the alcala, I ran over to the Teapot Store to pick up my purchases from earlier in the day.
Again as the night before, we were back in our rooms by 7:30 p.m. ready to relax for the evening. The dogs are barking.
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